Russian lips: plumping your lips without surgery using hyaluronic acid

The aesthetic-medicine procedure known as « Russian lips » is a highly fashionable lip-injection method. This technique, which originated in Eastern Europe, uses hyaluronic acid according to a specific protocol to create fuller, taller lips that take on more or less the shape of a heart. It therefore differs from conventional injections, notably in its precision, and is generally considered more effective for achieving a harmonious, more natural result. Indications, how it works, the difference with conventional injections, price, how long results last, recovery and risks: here is everything you need to know about plumping your lips through injections, without surgery.

Why turn to aesthetic medicine for the lips?

Over time, our lips can lose their volume. This is primarily explained by ageing, which leads to a decrease in collagen production, the substance responsible for the plump appearance of the lips.

Exposure to external elements such as temperature changes, wind, sun exposure or pollution also reduces lip volume, as the lips do not benefit from a protective film like the skin does. Many people are therefore subject to frequent lip dryness and, over time, to the appearance of lines that reduce the density of the lips.

Our lifestyles also have an impact on lip volume, with certain factors in particular such as alcohol, tobacco, stress or hormonal fluctuations all contributing to thinning them over time.

To restore the firmness of the lips and reshape their contour, an ever-growing number of patients – mainly women – now turn to a filler based on hyaluronic acid administered without surgery. This substance, naturally present in the human body, is used in aesthetic medicine and makes it possible to restore lost volume and counter the signs of skin ageing (lines, fine lines) by filling the empty spaces between skin cells. It also contributes to maintaining the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, with a variable degree of cross-linking that gives a more or less voluminous appearance to the treated area.

What does the Russian lips technique involve?

The Russian lips technique is a special method of hyaluronic acid injection that gives the lips a voluminous, heart-shaped appearance reminiscent of the Russian-doll aesthetic. It consists of micro-injections of small doses of the volumising substance into the centre of the lips to lift them rather than simply adding extra volume.

The lips are in fact made up of two distinct parts known as the white lip and the red lip. The « Russian lips » procedure focuses mainly on the upper lip, with the injection performed inside the red lip to gain height and redefine the curves and volumes of the mouth.

The result is then very natural, with the upper lip fuller and lifted but without excessive volume. The natural contours are preserved and the Cupid’s bow is accentuated, giving the lips a more sensual appearance. This « Russian-style » lip-injection method spread widely through social media and remains one of the most frequent lip-plumping requests in clinic.

Russian lips or conventional injection: what’s the difference?

The main difference lies in the direction of the work. A conventional hyaluronic acid injection aims above all to increase lip volume by projecting the lips forward. The « Russian lips » technique, on the other hand, aims to lift the lip in height rather than in projection: the product is deposited in micro-quantities, vertically, from the base of the lip towards the edge, from the inside outwards.

This approach makes it possible to maintain a flatter lip profile, faithful to the original anatomy, and to avoid the « duck face » effect associated with excess projected volume. As the number of injection points is reduced, the session is also generally less uncomfortable than a traditional lip injection. The two techniques are not necessarily in opposition either: they can sometimes be combined depending on the patient’s anatomy and expectations.

What are the advantages of this lip-plumping method?

The Russian lips method for achieving fuller lips offers various advantages:

• hyaluronic acid injections are not only volumising but can also help to rehydrate and rejuvenate the appearance of the lips;
• as the substance used is natural, it is very well tolerated by the human body;
• the technique used is also less painful than the traditional lip-augmentation method, since it requires fewer injection points;
• the hyaluronic acid used is absorbable and reversible: if the result is unsatisfactory, it can be dissolved with an injection of hyaluronidase, an enzyme that breaks down the product;
• finally, this non-surgical treatment is by definition far less invasive than a surgical procedure and can be performed on virtually all types of lips, including thin lips.

Contraindications

Certain very specific types of people cannot, however, benefit from the « Russian lips » treatment for non-surgical lip plumping. This is notably the case for the following profiles:

• women who are pregnant or breastfeeding;
• people suffering from certain autoimmune diseases;
• people on anticoagulant treatment or taking high-dose aspirin;
• people with an active skin infection or skin disease;
• people who have previously had aesthetic procedures on the area to be treated.

The risk of allergy with hyaluronic acid is nevertheless very limited, given that this substance is already naturally secreted by the body.

Preparing for the Russian lips procedure

Filler injections to redefine the lip contour require a prior consultation and examination of the lips to determine whether this technique is suitable for the patient. The consultation is sometimes carried out on the day of the procedure. Before the injections, a numbing cream may also be applied for the patient’s added comfort. A local anaesthetic based on xylocaine may also be offered to people who are particularly anxious.

In the days leading up to the procedure, it is advisable to hydrate the lips well and to stop any anticoagulant-based medication. Aspirin, vitamin E and alcohol should also be avoided for about a week before the injections. You should also avoid any sun exposure in the 3 to 4 days before the procedure. If you are prone to bruising, you may finally consider taking a homeopathic arnica-based remedy 3 days before and after the session to help limit it.

How the procedure to plump the lips without surgery works

After disinfecting the lips, the « Russian lips » procedure consists of injecting very small quantities of hyaluronic acid using a micro-needle along the contours and at the centre of the lips, and in particular along the Cupid’s bow. To obtain subtle volume, the doctor begins by injecting the filler into the mid-dermis and then into the deep dermis of the red lip. The procedure starts at the base of the lip and the volumising product is applied while exerting pressure outwards. The practitioner applies the product from the inside, then directs the substance towards the outside of the lips.

Volumising work on the height of the lips

Unlike traditional injections intended to enlarge the lips, « Russian lips » injections must be performed vertically rather than horizontally to achieve a discreet, natural enlargement of the lips. The practitioner seeks to increase volume by working on the height of the lip rather than through forward projection, in order to avoid the « duck face » effect.

This technique therefore aims to lift the lips to provide a volumising effect without altering the natural shape of the face, while respecting the original proportions. Its goal is to increase lip volume naturally in order to give them a fuller, plumper appearance.

A procedure tailored to each patient

A single session is generally sufficient, with one syringe used in small touches and injections performed gradually in consultation with the patient. The injection procedure is not standardised and can be adapted to the specific features and expectations of each patient. Thin lips, for example, need a little more product than medium lips, and an optimal result on a very faint mouth may require a gradual approach, over one to three spaced-out sessions. The success of the procedure depends primarily on respecting the proportions between the upper lip and the lower lip in order to achieve a natural effect. The complete procedure generally takes no more than 15 to 20 minutes and turns out to be relatively less painful than conventional hyaluronic acid injections.

Recovery

The Russian lips session does not require any specific time off, so you can return to your usual activities immediately after the procedure. It is, however, recommended to apply a cold compress to the lips to limit the swelling and bruising that may appear in the first few hours after the session.

You should also wait at least one day before using make-up on the lip area. During the first week after the injection, also avoid any source of heat (sauna, steam room, intense sun exposure) and continue to hydrate your lips intensively. An arnica-based cream can then help you speed up the process by which the swelling subsides in the first few days afterwards.

Before and after: what to expect?

Right after the session, the lips appear swollen and a little more voluminous than they will actually be: this is a normal, temporary reaction. The swelling and any feeling of tightness gradually subside over the first few days.

The genuinely representative « before and after » result is most often best appreciated after about three days, once the initial swelling has dissipated: the upper lip then appears taller, the contour is redefined and the Cupid’s bow better drawn, with no « done » look. This is also the moment, at the follow-up visit, when any small touch-up can be planned to perfect the symmetry. It is therefore recommended not to judge the result in the hours following the injection, but to wait for it to fully stabilise.

The post-procedure results of the Russian lips treatment

At the end of the hyaluronic acid injection session using the Russian lips method, the patient will generally feel a logical, normal sensation of swollen lips. The final result of the procedure will not be perceptible immediately, as it is most often accompanied by a small amount of inflammation that will disappear after a few days. The final result will be about 10 to 15% less voluminous than the immediate post-session result. Applying ice to the lips will allow the swelling to subside more quickly. Although fairly rare, a few bruises may also occur.

The final result can then truly be appreciated after three days, with fuller, more defined lips. To optimise the result, a single touch-up may prove necessary one to two weeks after the session, during a follow-up visit, in order to fill in the areas of the lips where the product has been naturally absorbed.

How long do the results last?

Lip enhancement through hyaluronic acid injection is temporary: the product is naturally absorbed over the months. Depending on the type of hyaluronic acid used and each person’s metabolism, the result of a Russian lips session most often lasts between 6 and 12 months. As the lips are a very mobile, heavily used area (speaking, eating), the product is absorbed there faster than in other areas of the face, and results generally last a little less long in very expressive people. A new maintenance session then makes it possible to prolong the result; lighter adjustments can be carried out earlier if necessary.

Price of a Russian lips session in Paris

The cost of lip plumping using the Russian lips technique depends on several factors: the amount of hyaluronic acid needed, the type of product used and the number of sessions required for a very thin mouth. In France, the price of a hyaluronic acid lip injection generally lies around a few hundred euros per syringe, a price comparable to that of a conventional lip injection. Only a personalised quote drawn up during a consultation can tell you the exact price suited to your situation: it is during this examination that the doctor assesses your lips, your expectations and the amount of product to plan for. In Paris as elsewhere, it is best to be wary of abnormally low offers, which rarely come with the safety guarantees of a procedure performed by a qualified doctor.

Russian lips: dangers, risks and a « botched » result

Performed by a competent doctor, the Russian lips injection is a well-controlled procedure whose most frequent after-effects remain benign and temporary: swelling, redness, small bruises or sensitivity, which disappear within a few days. Like any medical procedure, however, it does carry risks that you should be aware of.

The rarer complications can include asymmetry or irregularities (small palpable nodules), an infection, or the Tyndall effect (a bluish discolouration when the product is injected too superficially). The serious but exceptional complication is vascular occlusion: the accidental injection of product into a blood vessel, which requires immediate care. It is precisely to prevent these risks that choosing a doctor trained in the anatomy of the lips is decisive.

The great advantage of hyaluronic acid is its reversibility: a result deemed « botched », too voluminous or asymmetrical, is not permanent. The product can be partially or totally dissolved with an injection of hyaluronidase, and the body ultimately absorbs it naturally in any case. To limit the risk of a disappointing result, the key is still to entrust your lips to an experienced practitioner rather than to a non-doctor injector, and to favour a gradual approach over excessive volume all at once.

To go further on the other facial-rejuvenation options, you can read our articles on micro-dosed injection techniques such as Baby Botox as well as on the alternatives to the Hyaluron Pen, whose use outside a medical setting poses real dangers. All of our facial hyaluronic acid injections are carried out at the practice by Dr Vincent Hunsinger, in Paris 17th (Étoile).